Dublin to Westport and Achill – 1891 (Part 4)

Index Page Page 193

CLONMACNOISE.

number of little gravel-ridges that it is not what a cyclist would appreciate. The country traversed is also desolate, and the several hamlets passed wretched to match. When two towers are close at hand on the hill in front, just beyond a hamlet, a lane, on the right, leads to the few cottages constituting the hamlet of Clonmacnoise, and the car will go that way and wait, but we recommend the traveller to leave it and walk the few yards over the hill so as to enter the graveyard of the churches from the west.

Clonmacmoise (“the meadow of the sons of Nos”) has been holy ground ever since St. Kieran (or Kyran) founded his abbey here in 548. The place soon became famous and was so richly endowed “that almost half of Ireland was said to be within the bounds of Clonmacnoise; and what was a strong inducement and contributed much towards enriching this house, it was believed, that all persons who were interred in the Holy Ground belonging to it, had insured to themselves a sure and immediate ascent to Heaven . . . it was the Iona of Ireland ; yet notwithstanding the reputed sanctity of this monastery… the abbey and town were frequently plundered, burnt and destroyed by despoilers of every kind, from the unpolished Irish desperado, to the empurpled king” Archdall.

On the bank of the Shannon, about a furlong below the graveyard are the massive fragments of the “Bishop’s Palace” or rather Castle, founded in 1214 by the Anglo-Normans, who three years before had pillaged the Abbey.

About 300 yds. S.W. of the Castle, about 20 yds. from the road, in a field between the road and the river, is St. Kieran’s Well.

Map of Seven Churches Clonmacnoise

Map of Seven Churches Clonmacnoise

Proceeding now to the graveyard, the accompanying sketch-plan indicates the existing ruins. O’ Rourke’s Round Tower (A), formerly much higher, has the doorway 15 ft. from the ground. It is 18 ft. in diameter externally, and 10 ft. inside – a safe refuge, see Introduction.

The Great Cross (B) which for many centuries has been known as “the cross of the Scriptures,” bears remains of Irish inscriptions: on the W. “A prayer for Flan, son of Maelsechlinn “; on the E. “A prayer for Colman, who made this cross on the king Flann.” It is 15 feet high, and covered with sculpture now scarcely decipherable. Flann (d. 915) was king of Meath; Colman (d. 924) was abbot of Clonmacnoise, and by them the so-
called Cathedral (C) was founded, though the existing building, also called Teampull McDermot, from its rebuilders, is of the 14th cent. Petrie was inclined to assign the capitals of the great W. doorway to the original church, built in 904. On the N. side,
towards the W. is a fine Perpend. doorway, with sculptures above it representing St. Patrick between St. Francis (head gone) and St. Dominick. The outmost member of the doorway was wilfully mutilated in 1864. In 1805 the ruins were partially repaired by
the Kilkenny Archaeological Society. On the S. sidle is the Sacristy (D), with a small octagonal belfry. The Cross (I) has lost its head but is richly sculptured. Teampull O’Kelly (K) is now represented only by remains of walls about 2 ft. high. The Cross (F) is a fine example, though not so large as (B).

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