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AUBURN
Oliver Goldsmith was born (Nov. 29, 1728) at Pallas, near Abbeyshrule. We have not visited the spot, but Macaulay says of it “Even at this day these enthusiasts who venture to make a pilgrimage to [it] are forced to perform the latter part of their journey on foot. The hamlet lies far from any high road on a dreary plain, which in wet weather is often a lake. The lanes would break any jaunting car to pieces.” While the poet was still a child his father, “the village preacher,” “passing rich with forty pounds a year,” removed to Lissoy. The type of “Sweet Auburn” has with more reason been assigned to some Kentish village. The other side of the picture, whether true of Auburn or not, might be identified with too many places in Ireland.
3. Lough Ree. For boats see p. 191. Browne is the head water-bailiff and the best of guides for the fisherman.
The scenery of this great “broad,” as it would be termed in Norfolk, is exceedingly pretty when set off by bright weather. At other times, the shores being nowhere more than a few feet above the water, the non-angling tourist need not devote much time to it. A good plan for those going west to Ballina or Westport is, to make an early start and visit some of the principal islands and Rindown Castle, catching the train about 1 p.m. at Knockcroghery (pron. Knock-cro-ree) station, which is a short mile from the landing place.
The south or main portion of the lough is about 6 miles long by 4 broad. North of that it sends out a great arm eastward, to the mouth of the Inny, while the north arm is from 10 to 11 miles long to the inflow of the Shannon. The bed of the lake is limestone, and the shore is everywhere exceedingly indented and in parts beautifully wooded. Except to visit the islands the most picturesque route is to keep fairly near the shore. At the S.E. corner the lough is connected with Lough Killinure (p. 194),which forms indeed a land-locked bay of it.
Starting from the Strand it is about 2 miles up the Shannon to the lough, and then another 2 miles N.E. to the charmingly wooded Here Island, on which Lord Castlemaine has a residence. Thence a course nearly due N. brings us in 2 to 3 miles to Inchmore, which as its name implies is the largest island, though of inconsiderable size. This forms the beginning of an archipelago in the middle of the lough, and leaving it to our right we stretch across N.W., 4 miles, for Safe Harbour on the Roscommon shore. This bay is formed by the narrow cape on which are the picturesque ruins of Rindown Castle, dating from the 11th cent. The principal part left is the keep and along bit of wall with remains of towers. Proceeding up the lough which here contracts to something over a mile in width, the west shore is charmingly wooded. Approaching lnchcleraun our course is westward up the bay to Knockcroghery (p.196).
Rail continued from p. 191 On leaving Athlone we get a view of it in the right rear, and then in a minute or two have charming peeps, right, over Lough Ree, including Hare Island and another islet to the left of it, and then alter crossing a bit of bog, see, right, the ruin of a small tower on a hillock at the head of a featureless
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