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ACHILL
the family. A larger or smaller number of these filthy hovels makes up an Achill village, and it is needless to add, that the Irish problem proper is nowhere more pressing than in this island. We do not hear of agrarian outrages, lint famine is never far removed, and a failure of the potatoe crop precipitates it. Nevertheless, the people seem pretty content with their mode of existence, and considerable numbers, though fewer than formerly, migrate to England for the harvesting. A good many have been induced to emigrate, but the population is still far too dense for the capacities of the soil.
The drive to Dugort affords a good general idea of the inland parts of the island. On leaving the sound the road winds inland and passes, left, the demesne of Major Pike, which has been thickly planted with Austrian pines for shelter, and its grounds are a good example of what may be done to reclaim the moors. You get a fine view right, over Blacksod Bay, as you ascend past the hamlet of Cashel, 4 m., where you may make acquaintance with your first Achill public-house. Soon the road trends west-
ward, and the view in that direction opens and includes Slievemore, the huge mountain to the N.W., and due W., Croaghaun, while as you approach Chapel Gross, 7 ¾ m., where there is another public-house, you overlook Keel Bay with its lofty cliff-ridge bounding it on the East. Turning now sharply to the right you have Slievemore full in front, and on the loft overlook Keel Lough, the largest of the Achill lakes. From the top of the ascent the road turns once more to the right and descends the valley to Dugort, 10 m., a neat little village in the form of a square around the Protestant church. The Slievemore Hotel, the only one in Achill, is situated at the foot of the mountain, within a few yards of the little bay, which is well sheltered from the Atlantic storms, and has good sands for bathing.
Dugort or “the Settlement” was founded by the Rev. E. Nangle, a Protestant clergyman, who about 1830 visited Achill in order to distribute food to the famishing islanders. The outcome of his work was the establishment of a missionary colony here. Of the beneficent purpose of its supporters there can be no question, its wisdom is perhaps open to question, and no general conversion of the Catholic population has resulted. As far as one can judge the example of a decently housed community has had no practical effect in improving the habits of the Achillese.
Excursions from Dugort
The full advertised programme is : –
Day 1. Boat to Seal Caves and back (5s.; 2s. 6d. each for a party). The caves are fine and are in the cliffs under Slievemore, about 2 m. from Dugort.
Ascend Slievemore.
2. Drive to Keel, see the Menawn Cliffs, and on to Dooagh. Walk to Keem and back, and drive back to Dugort.
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