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CLONMACNOISE.
Of Teampull-hurpan (E) no details of interest are left, but the O’Melaghlin Chapel (G), also known as Teampull Ree (12th cent.) has a lancet light at the E. end of the S. wall and two round-headed lights at the E. end. Teampull Kieran (H) is very small and featureless, and was probably only an oratory. Of Teampull Connor (L), founded in the 10th cent., there is an original round-headed doorway. This building still serves as the Protestant Church. Teampull Fineen (M) is said to have been built by Fineen McCarthy in the 13th cent. It has an interesting chancel arch and the remains of a piscina. At the S.E. angle of the nave, and attached to it is McCarthey’s Round Tower, 55 ft., with the door level with the ground. This points to its use merely as a belfry, and it is obvious that O’Rourke’s great tower would suffice as a place of shelter.
The cottages in the lane over the stile (see plan) are supposed to occupy the site of the residences of the Dean and Chapter.
The E. gate (see plan) leads, by the pilgrims’ way, past the “Carn of the Three Crosses,” where a hollow stone (about 180 yds. from the grave-yard) may have been the base of a cross, to Relick Calliagh (about 300 yds. further), which was the chapel of a Nunnery founded or rebuilt by Devorgilla, daughter of O’Melaglin (see G) king of Meath, in 1170. It is an interesting ruin, and has a beautiful chancel arch. The rest of the Nunnery has disappeared.
In 1886 St. Kieran’s Day (Sept. 9) was, for the first time for many years, celebrated by a great gathering of Roman Catholics. The graveyard is as full as it can hold with tombstones, amid which, however, we failed to discover memorials of 9th and 10th century abbots, which are said to exist.
Clonmacnoise to Shannonbridge, 4 m., Ballinasloe, 13 ½ m. The road ml follows the left bank of the Shannon at a short distance from the river all the way to Shannonbridge (Hotel : Prince of Wales. Irish), a village of no interest to the tourist. The road crosses the Shannon by a long bridge and is thence as straight as may be, and as dull, all the way to Ballinasloe (p. 163).
2. To Auburn, 8 m. This is a pleasant drive, but its interest arises from the popular identification of the hamlet of Lissoy with the “Sweet Auburn” of Goldsmith’s Deserted Village.
About 3 miles from Athlone we reach Ballykeeran village, and then for more than a mile skirt Lough Killinure, an offset of Lough Ree. Then, turning eastward, our road turns to the left at the cross-roads at Glassan, 5 m., and is then direct 3 miles more, to Auburn (Inn). The traveller, “Goldsmith in hand, will have no lack of cicerones to point out the several local allusions, but he will not fail to agree with Macaulay that the poet “had assuredly never seen in his native island such a rural paradise, such a seat of plenty, content, and tranquillity as his ‘Auburn’.
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